Friday 4 December 2009

Free KISSES fingerless gloves pattern in CROCHET




Fingerless Gloves Crochet Pattern

November 2009 Susan Koffler

In this pattern UK crochet terms are being used.
If you are used to USA terms please refer to the conversion table at the end of the pattern.

YARNS USED:

DK pure wool 2 balls of 50 g and 120m per 50 g. USA Weight: category: #3 Light Worsted
Sock yarn: category #1 Super Fine: alpaca 186m per 50 g.

Actual yarns used in the photographed sample:
1 ball Artesano Hummingbird 4 ply in the blues variegated colourway

2 balls Mondial Merino Sport by Yeoman Yarns in colour # 1
This is a machine washable pure merino wool.

Crochet Hook: 4.5mm.( US #7)

Difficulty: Intermediate or confident beginner.

The pattern is for a small adult or teenage girl’s sized hand, there are guidance notes to adjust the pattern at the end of the pattern.


Size:
18 cm around cuff, cuff length: 6.5 cm.
Overall length from cuff edge to fingers: 19 cm.
Palm width 20 cm in circumference, 10 cm across.


Gauge:
4 crossed treble stitches to 5 cm ( 2’’)
4 rows of crossed trebles to 5 cm ( 2’’)

Stitches Used:
Crossed trebles XTR
Front post treble: FPTR
Back post treble: BPTR
2TRTOG: standard decrease by working 2 trebles together as one.
Sl st= slip stitch
Dc= Double crochet ( SC in USA)


Pattern Notes:

The pattern is worked in the round from the wrist to the first knuckles of the fingers and then a ribbed cuff is added later and worked to the desired length.
In this pattern all fingers are separated by a stitch but this may be omitted if the wearer prefers the fingers to share one opening.
The 2 yarns are held and worked together as one throughout.
This gives it more body, softness and a tweedy effect.And boy: IT'S REALLY WARM!!!

PATTERN:

Chain 36 loosely or in a hook a few sizes larger than a 4.5mm, close with a sl st.
R1: Ch3 work 35 trebles in the chains. Close with a sl st.
R2 : Ch3 then work a tr in the stitch to the right of the 3ch.( first crossed tr made),
Continue to work in crossed tr by skipping the next tr and working a tr in the 2nd stitch after the 3 ch. Then work the next tr by stitching it into the skipped stitch
( second XTR made) , continue round for a further 16 XTR. Close row with a sl st into the top of the 3ch.
R3,4 as row 2: 18 XTR in the round.
Divide for thumb:
R5: CH 3 and a tr in the previous stitch, then work 6 more XTR, skip the next 8 sts and work 7 XTR to end the row with a slst to the top of the 3ch.
The hand is now 14 XTR and the thumb: 4 XTR.
In the next row R6: work 2 XTR in the first stitch above the thumb divide: 15 XTR in total.
R7, 8,9Continue the hand first: work 3 more rows XTR as before- 15 XTR.
R10:Ch1 , work a dc in each top of a treble for 5 sts then work 2 dc in the top of the 6th treble, repeat to the end.You should now have 35 sts. Sl st to close.
R11: Ch1, work 3 dc : 1 in each stitch below, then work a dc in the double layer by working it across the top of the glove opening: push the hook through 2 sts one from each side ( front and back) of the glove. It should be 3 sts in from the side at the back as well as the front.
Work 4dc and work another dc across the 2 layers at the same point front and back: so you are now 9 sts in from the right hand edge of the glove.( working stitches from right to left)
Work 4 dc and repeat the one dc across 2 layers: you are now 14 sts in from the right hand edge of this glove’s top opening and 4 sts from it’s left hand edge.
Now work 7 dc round the top moving from the front side( the side facing you) to the back side of the glove, after 3 sts of these 7 turn the work.
Work the remaining 4 dcs and this should take you to the first finger separation line.
Work 1 dc across 2 layers.
Work 4dc and work 1 dc across 2 layers.
Work 4dc and work 1 dc across 2 layers.
You should now be back at the opening for the first or smallest finger.
Work 3 dc and fasten off.

You should have 4 finger openings with the one for the smallest finger being 6dcs and the one nearest the thumb being 7 dcs.

Finish Thumb:
Work 10 dc in the top of the trebles of the thumb hole.
Work 1 or more rows like this depending on size of thumb.
Fasten off. Sew in ends neatly.

Ribbed Cuff:

Fasten yarn back onto the starting chain near the thumb end of the glove.
If you want a tight ribbing you can go down a hook size to 4mm or smaller.
R1 : Ch 3 then work 2tr, then work one 2TRTOG,* work 3 tr then 1 2TRTOG: repeat from * to end and sl st to close. You should have 26 sts.
R2: 3 Ch then *FPTR,BPTR repeat from * to end and close with a sl st.
This forms the ribbing, the 3 ch is effectively a BPTR.
Work 7 more rows of ribbing and fasten off.

If you would like a longer cuff: work more rows.

Work the other glove the same way but reverse the spacings at the top or turn it around to suit. Left and Right hand are worked the same way.


Size Adjustments:
For larger sizes add stitches in increments of 2 to fit personal palm/wrist size.
And/ or use a 5mm hook or larger.
M: I suggest 40 sts ie 20 XTR
L : 44 sts: ie 22 XTR

When you get to the top of the palm divide the stitches you have by 4 to give the spacings.

If you need to use a 5.5mm hook: use another strand of the sock yarn or the fabric will be too loose and less warm.

Conversion Stitches:UK dc = USA sc
UK treble= USA dc
Every type of treble mentioned is a type of dc.
Please note this pattern is the copyright of Susan Merry King Designs and can be used freely for personal use only.
If you link to this pattern please credit it to me and PLEASE do not use it to make gloves to sell.
I will be having some finished items like this to sell in my Etsy and MISI shops real soon I hope.

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