Pattern was free but in Norwegian on a lady's blog ..... Google translate made an effort to find the English equivalent but we ended up with many funny words such as ''elevation mask'' which means the turning chains...!And then there are the mouse tags which I think are the little triangles or pointy bits you can see happening in the potholder...and strikes which also are those triangles I think...
The original is here:
http://asalmanakk.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/annepalandets-grytekluter-en-slags.html
AND I hereby give credit and THANK YOU ANNE PAAL for a really fun project and excellent photos!
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/annepaalandets-potholder- is where you can see it on Ravelry: 77 people have already made this! Now many have figured it out and others were or know Norwegian, BUT it;s such a cute pattern so I am offering a translation for the UK and {USA} here? OK?
for a 24 cm cotton potholder with two sides you need about 88 Grammes of assorted DK pure cotton, assorted is the fun part: colourplay!!!!
And a 3.5 mm or even a 3mm hook as you need it nice and tight?!
She starts with a 5ch and slip stitch ( ss) to close but I found it left a hole so I would do a 2ch and then work 8 dc {8sc}into the 2nd chain, pull to close the hole.( that was foundation and row1= 8sts)
I won't mention it again: N.B. ALL ROWS finish with a slip stitch close and tend to start with a 1ch as a turning chain.
Row 2: 2DC IN EACH ST ( 16 STS) {2SC FOR USA peeps}
Row 3: 1dc in next 2 sts then 2dc in 3rd st ( 21sts) { for dc read sc USA}CHANGE COLOUR
ROW 4: dc around and increase three times evenly spaced- so after 6 sts do a 2dc in the 7th?! { USA read sc}( 24 sts)
row 5: increasing by working 2dc in every 3rd stitch should generate about 32 sts in total.{ USA SC}
Anne is very chatty in her pattern and says you can change the increases to suit your style, you don;t want too many or it will be wavy or too few and it will turn into a tube or pot....
This is from me: some extra advice NOT on Anne's blog:
Pauline Turner UK crochet guru has a rule for keeping circles flat: and this is quoted and courtesy of her HOW TO CROCHET book: if working in dc to keep a circle flat you need to increase by 6dc on every round.
( for the spikes later you have to decide whether they are the height of a treble or half treble : treble circles need 12 stitch increases per row and half trebles : 8)
So now you can use this crochet theory to help you decide!!!!YAY I love learning new things!
Now the FUN starts with creating these triangles or pointy bits! CHANGE COLOUR!
ROW 6:First the navy triangles on my photo above, now they don;t look like triangles until later so don;t worry.
Omitting the turning chain: *work 3 ch and then a TR into the 1st ch of those 3, then skip a st - in the row below now- and work a dc into the next st( i.e. the dc stitch in the row below, we've left those pesky 3ch behind now). Repeat from * all around.{ *3 ch then a DC into the 1st ch, miss a st and work a sc into the next st, repeat from *} They look quite scalloped but that's fine.
ROW7: changed colour to turquoise see photos.
Attaching yarn to a dc {sc} in the dips between scallops, ch 3(counts as TR) then work 2 more TR into the same dc, work a dc into the 3rd ch of the 3ch below, then work* 3TR into the next dc below and a dc into the 3rd ch**, repeat around from *to **.{ for every TR read a DC and every dc read sc}
See photos!
And now you can choose what to do: add stripy circles or pointy circles?!
In subsequent rows when making the second row of pointy insertions: use only 2TR {2dc}INSTEAD OF 3!
And I also sometimes used a slipstitch instead of a dc between the points...But you can do what you feel is best?
Treble finished and about to skip a stitch and work a dc into the orange dc of the row below.
HEALTH WARNING: this is superbly addictive!
17 cm diameter reached.... still continuing.
In this one it was 2TR and a dc, but in the lime green it was 2 TR and a SS.
( THAT was in UK terms...)
Come back soon? I'll be making a plain striped back and then crocheting the two together with a 2 colour border and adding the hanging loop, soon.....?!!Have fun and HAPPY CROCHETING!!!!
Thank you so very much for your explanations. I had seen those potholders long ago but never really dared to start as I'm not a good crocheter. But with the help of your pattern instructions I feel more confident. Thanks a million and greetings from Germany!
ReplyDeleteBrilliant news Claudia, I am so happy to hear this!
ReplyDeleteI hope you see the back and border tutorial on the next day post as well?
And let me know if you have any problems?
And? Please share a photo when you have made one? superb, thanks!
Thanks for the translation!!!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for the translation. Question...after that first picot round, do any of the straight dc rows following that throughout the rest of the pattern consist of increases or do you do straight DC in each stitch on all rows to make up for the increases that the picot rows make?
ReplyDeleteTo behonest it was a long time ago but I think you would need to increase a bit in the dc rows or the potholder would not stay flat? if it becomes too wavy reduce or stop increases? but in theory for every row in a circle you have to work increases to keep the work flat as it will start to form a bowl if you don't. the number of increases relate to the height of the stitch you are working in that round, that's why it is more for the picots and less for a simple (uk) dc stitch?
ReplyDeleteHope that helps. Thanks for doing this.
happy crocheting!
Thank you so much for your translation. I've made these potholders in 2012 with Google translation and I love to make them again, but the original site is marked as dangerous by Norton. Happy I found you via Pinterest!
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ReplyDelete