Monday, 5 May 2014

Galleria Umbrella Cosy: SUNFLOWER GLORIOUSNESS- free pattern

 This is the story of my sunflower umbrella which I have thought about , dreamt about and put on wish lists for many many months if not years until finally I simply went and ordered it!  To cheer myself up on tose many many wet and grey rainy days! It took ages deciding but then a sunflower it just HAD to be.
 It comes with an amazing spring action that's effectively a defence weapon too!
 Excellent for those smart coats which don't have a hood.... Besides a daughter broke my new'' Paperchase'' butterfly umbrella so I had none...BUT BUT BUT it comes in a small black box, and NO CASE!
THIS is ow it looks when ready to be taken out.....

YOU can get one here....:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Galleria-auto-folding-umbrella-Sunflower/dp/B003AFMS5C/ref=pd_sim_sbs_luggage_29?ie=UTF8&refRID=1D93W5W7CERB6ZN1QPQX

Or they have a DAISY  or Gerbera and many others too.... SEE?
 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Galleria-auto-folding-umbrella-Gerbera/dp/B003AFMS3Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1399316224&sr=8-3&keywords=galleria+umbrellas
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Galleria-auto-folding-umbrella-White/dp/B003AFTZ4Y/ref=pd_bxgy_luggage_img_y


So a case had to be made to make it easier to carry and to protect the contents!
These are the yarns I gathered together:

 And this is the case I made: the pattern follows shortly. It fastens neatly onto the handle for safekeeping.
 It has a drawstring closure which fastens as you carry it by the same green handle...!


 It has a picot edge finish, meant to be scalopped petals but it seemed a bit fussy...
 Nice bit of ribbing for a snug collar/ neck fitting?
 Here's the carrying cord being made: a chain which is then slip-stitched back on itself.

One caveat: it's better lined with a bit of lining or gingham as the ''prongs'' can catch in the crochet fabric a bit?
Mine were remnants of DK cottons in:
Lime green=A
Deep Orange=B
Yellow-Orange=C
Golden Yellow=D
Lemon Yellow=E
60 grammes of DK cottons in total.
Use a 3.5 (or 4mm hook), you want a firm fabric?
Chain 6  in C and close with a slip stitch: ss.
Ch 3 and work 15 Tr into ring= 16 sts close with ss.
ch3 and work 2TR into each Tr = 32 sts.
Change to D: 3ch, work*  2 HTR into 1st Tr and 1HTR into next repeat from * all around. Close with ss.(48sts)
Change to E: ch 3 then work* 3Tr 1ch and repeat from * all around. : 12 groups of 3 Tr. The turning chain does not count as a stitch. close every row with a ss from now onwards.
Change back to D and work 48 Tr. close with a ss.....
Change to C and work a Tr into each Tr but where there is the ch sp in t2 rows below, work a SPIKE stitch into that ch sp, this should be every 4th stitch.
Next row:&&  In C after ch3  work 48 Tr
Change to A:  after ch3 WORK 48 HTR.
Change to D: after ch3  work 48 Tr.
Change to C :  after ch3 work 48 Tr.
Change to B: after ch3 WORK 48 HTR.
Change to E ch 3 then work 3 TR and 1 ch all the way around as before, repeating the 4 sts.Change to D and work  3 ch then TR all around.
Change to C and ch3,  work 3 Tr then a spike stitch TR at the level of the ch sp 2 rows below but pick up a loop from the deep orange (B) stitch below the ch sp instead, repeat those 4 sts all around. Use the ch sp only as a marker.
repeat from && to current spike stitch row once more.( 8 more rows)
Continuing with C work 3ch and 48 HTR all around.
Change to A ch 3, work* 1 front post treble, 1 back post treble , repaet from * all around using the posts of the HTR in the row below: ribbing set up row made.
Continue in ribbing stitch pattern for 3 more rows: using D,C,B.
Eyelet Row: With C work 1TR, 2 CH all around.
Edging rows:
With E ch1, work 1dc in each TR and 2 dc into each ch sp al around.
Ch1, *work 2 dc: 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches, then in 3rd stitch work ( 1dc , 3ch 1dc) into the stitch, repeat from * all around.

Fasten off and sew in all ends.

Cord: With A chain a length long enough to feed through the eyelet row spaces loosely and add a section long enough for a handle , slip stitch back along the chain one way and then back the other side- SEE PHOTO-  to make a thick flat cord. Feed through the eyelet holes and sew together the ends, sew in all yarn ends.

FABRIC LINING:

CUT RECTANGLE 30 CM BY 26 CM  and sew  a 2 cm hem ( 1 cm folded twice) at one of the ends, the 30 cm thus becomes 28 cm.
Sew the two 28 cm edges together making a tube with a 2 cm seam.( the circumference becomes 24 cm)
Cut a circle with a diameter of   7 cm and sew the unhemmed tube edge to the circle with a 1 cm seam allowance. Neaten all seams with a zig zag finish or overlocker style stitch.
With wrong sides together and right sides facing outwards, hand sew the hemmed top edge of the fabric tube into the dark orange row of ribbing of the crochet tube. i.e. just below the eyelt row being careful NOT to catch the cord or the eyelet row at all.


ENJOY!!!!

Raised ripple stitch triangle tutorial - for the bank holiday?!

Hi guys, still housebound and still not sleeping well due to those dastardly ribs but I've had my eye surgery so left and right will be functioning the same way soon and am recovering much better from the surgery than the silly fall I had! Here's my new Rowan baby merino and silk yarn all made up into a comfy cosy cowl in the geometry pattern from Simply Crochet issue 17. Took 2 balls, 4mm hook and 15 repeats of the diamonds.

On my ravelry project page for this I explain how to read the crochet work so you can stop reading the paper pattern and just get on with it while watching tv?  I made extra notes to help you:
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/merrystitcher/lacy-cowl-2


Being home and studying has been good but you also need a break and I thought I 'd do a Bank Holiday demonstration/ tutorial on a stitch pattern that we'll explore together , yes?
You will need a DK yarn and 4 or 4.5 mm hook (or a sock yarn with a 3.5 or 4 mm hook)? And Inside Crochet magazine  : issue 53, we're going to try the Vicky Brown ripple shawl?!
I dug out some DK yarn: Sirdar Escape I think it is and a 4 mm hook to have a go at this intriguing stitch pattern which I love the look of! So that's why I bought the mag, as well as the articles of course.

We're going to do chains and dcs and trebles and a stitch called front raised dc, which is a dc worked round the stem of a treble in the row below: easy peasy!There's also quite a lot of COUNTING involved so I need you to be wide awake and not distracted for a while? The terms I'm using are UK terms by the way!
This is not a tute to do with the TV or a film, but it's a challenge that's worthwhile as we get a fun shape going. It reminds me of mocking bird wings from the recent film: Hunger Games Catching Fire?
 This is the inspiration and the pattern in the magazine, but let's make a neckwarmer in a soft DK WOOL?
 This is what I was thinking of? One of those cosy things to wear inside the neck space of a coat?
mine's thicker and sturdier being made of DK and I'm lining it with a piece of aqua-green fleece and adding a few buttons on the back for extra cosiness
 Can you see the wings?
 Ok start with a chain 7.
 Then follow pattern for row1.



 End of first row.
 Then row 2: see photo of what you should have at end of row 2.
 Row 3 finished, as per pattern.
 Row 4 uses those FRONT RAISED DOUBLE CROCHET stitches, you can't see what they do yet as the ridge appears on the reverse.... You stick the hook from right to left behind the stem of the Treble below as per the photo? Then draw up a loop and finish your dc in the normal way.
 PULL loop on hook, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, FRDC made.
See? This is where you put your hook for this stitch, this is the only new bit to do?
I love these rows, they work up really quickly and the ridge is most impressive on the other side.

 4th row completed.
 Turned over, showing the ridge formed on the back.
 See ridge!
Now the next row- - we work Trebles into the top of the V's lying at the top of those dcs just worked, but you do need to look for them. It's NOT those ridge stitches, it lies further back.
In this photo I'm trying to show you see? 
There's a few trebles already worked at the far right, we've gone round the point where we always do the ( 2 Tr, 2ch, 2Tr) group into the central chain space, and now coming back along the other side.

 5th row completed: see those trebles after the ridge in photo below.
At this point I found an error in the printed pattern: it omits to say that at the end of every even row you work the 2 dc  then a ch and then a dc  into the turning chain.( row 6) It's the ''chain'' that's been left out but you need it as in subsequent rows you work into the chain space and witout a ch you wouldn't have that space ! 
( by the way at the end of even numbered rows it's 2 dc , 1 ch and a dc into the Tch, at the end of every odd numbered row it;s 2Tr, 1ch and a Tr into the Tch) a Tch being the turning chain.
And it's all beautifully symmetrical around the 2 ch space at the point of the triangle so it also helps to remember that.
I'm adding the ch in purple into the pattern here: sorry for the poor photo.
This is after completing row 6: there are now 2 ridges and I've chained the 4 to start row 7...
 Please do notice the back side is quite flat?
 About to start row 7: as above and below, straight rows of trebles.

 Row 7 completed below. The yarn is variegated and is changing colour, I haven't changed it.
Row 8 creates the third ridge and at row 9 we are starting to have to count carefully as decreases and increases are made to create wavy lines and bulges.
 Here's the third ridge from row 8.
 Row 9: Here are the skip 1 st, 1tr worked 4 times....Just after working a simple 5 Tr along, ie 1Tr in each stitch.
 Then after the decrease comes a whopping 5 Tr shell all in one stitch, and not only that BUT you do it TWICE!
 So a HUGE bulge is formed thus...
 End of row 9 seen from both ways?
 And after the ridge created by row 10...
playtime: it could be a fingerless glove! Or a cape for a doll or teddy bear?

Onwards: need to really concentrate for row 11 and do what it says in the pattern, in both rowa 10 and 11 though that ch is still being omitted at the end of the row...?
Row 12 is a relief in both senses of the word! Quick and easy and requires little concentration now , bringing crochet relief and textural relief : it's the 5th Ridge.

 Row 13 is a major event as lots of extra things start finally happening and I recommend you WRITE it OUT IN FULL separately( that is what I actually did as I got it wrong first time it was not symmetrical so I knew I'd gone wrong) to help you do this one as it's not written out helpfully - personal opinion- in the magazine? You start with some instructions, then you leap to some other instructions on a previous page from the asterisk and then you do that bit twice and then you leap back to the page you were on: get the picture? !!!
Or think of it as in sections:
part 1 is the ''introduction'' at the start of the far corner, part 2 is the chevron ripple part: you do a 5Tr bulge, then a skipping section 8 times, then another 5 Tr bulge TWICE, then another 8 skip routine and end with a 5Tr single bulge.
Part 3 takes you to the point with a plain 5 Tr and the usual in the 2ch space at the point routine, then back on the other side. So after 5 Tr you do the part 2 again.
Finally you end with a repeat of the introduction: the 3 Tr and the ch space stitches.
So it's in 5 parts: intro = part 1, then part 2, then central part 3, part 4= part 2 and part 5= part 1.
And that's just row 13.
 It's given us those extra ripples and bulges hasn't it?
 This is the back view...
And this has had the row 14 added for the next textural ridge...
At this point it fits as a cosy neck-warmer?
And weighs : 35 grammes.
In Sirdar Escape DK terms that means you'll need a length of about 77 metres for this wee neck-warmer cosy. In the 1970's in Holland my dad used to wear this sort of thing, they were polo neck ribbed wool things with a piece to cover the upper neck and chest to tuck under the open reveres or lapels of a coat.
Less bulky than a scarf but just as warm and practical? ''Befje'' they were called...

Like I said I'm stopping here and sewing fleece on the inside and adding buttons and button loops to the back to wear with my coat in winter.
I'll share the finish with you later this week?

OR you could continue on with the pattern! 
Beware in row 15 you need to start using DOUBLE trebles, so yarn over twice before starting ad again do write out the sequence for the tricky rows: 15,16,17,19,21,23 etc or break it into sections which you can understand and all will be well!