ANNIVERSARY ALERT Prize giveaway THIS WEEK

Hey! I have been so busy ''being a rock'' and propping up the family emotions that I have missed, nay really really missed the ONE YEAR ANNIVERSARY ( 24.02.2009) of this version of my blog alltogether!!!

So I'm off on a jaunt to Southampton tomorrow but at the weekend: in fact on MOTHER'S DAY
I will do a prize draw from my followers for a crocheted floral hairclip or brooch.
Can't show them yet as I haven't made it yet, but it'll be in pinks with a bead or button centre.
So if anyone is interested: sign up now to be a follower and it could be YOU!!!

Photo of prizes will be blogged by Saturday 13 March and the draw will take place at 9pm on Sunday 14th March, Mother's Day.


GOOD LUCK!!!!

New Year's day diary cover in crochet

As promised here's the pattern for the A5 size standard diary : a week per 2 pages to view.

I hope you all had a good New Year celebration: we did but more of that another day, more recipes to share . I will limit the exclamation marks because although I do feel them, my sister says they are booooring.

PATTERN DETAILS:

4 mm hook

Approximately 150 g of DK cotton or yarn : the finished cover weighs 122g but thta's after working in all the ends and 2 of my colours are a bamboo mix not 100% cotton.

YARNS used:

King Cole BAMBOO cotton: 1 ball lime green and one ball turquoise.( 230 m to 100g)

ROWAN handknit cotton: one ball dark red and one ball bright orange.( 90m to 50g)

Sirdar DK cotton: dark navy blue.( not labelled as from a market)

Wendy DK Supreme cotton : golden yellow ( looks like a pale orange)


Stitches used:

Chain: ch

Double crochet: dc ( USA : sc)

Crab stitch or revere dc ( USA :reverse sc)

It was made in 3 pieces and then crocheted( badly) together but could be sewn together or crocheted in one piece.

It is made slightly ( 1- 3 cm) smaller than the diary size so it fits snugly.

Gauge: approximately 15 dc stitches and 20 rows to 10 by 10 cm.




MAIN OUTSIDE COVER PIECE:
Foundation and row 1: ch 33 and then work dc in third ch from hook, dc to end: 32 sts.( in turquoise)
Change colour when about to work last dc in the last ch: choose a new colour and work it in when there are 2 loops on the hook, pull new colour in and turn.
Row 2:*Ch1 and work 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, continue in dc with the last one into the top of the turning chain, this is also where you change colour again.
Row 3-32 Repeat row 2. ( last colour change was from golden yellow to turquoise)

Row 33 Having changed to the colour choice for the spine( in my case turquoise) ch1 and work a dc in third stitch from hook in the BACK loop only, work dc in BACK loop only for remaining 31 sts.
The BACK loop is the one furthest away from your body when crocheting.
This creates a natural fold line.
Row 34 and 35 : repeat row 2 but keep the same colour. ( turquoise) Change colour at the end of row 35 in the usual way. ( from turquoise to navy)
Row 36 : CH1, work dc in the front loop of the third st from hook and then 1 dc in every stitch using only the front loop to the end of the row. Change colour on the end of the last stitch as usual.
Row 37-68 Repeat row 2, changing colour on every row, maintaining 32 sts.
Ending on a row to match the spine if you so wish.



INSIDE COVER : MAKE 2
Foundation: 33 ch.
Row 1 as row 1 for outside cover.
Row 2 : as row 2 for front cover except colour changes now take place after 2 rows of a colour with an occasional single row in a colour.
Row 3-32 as row 2 for outside cover ; ending on row 32 with the colour for the spine.
row33: Reverse dc or crabstitch in the colour that matches the spine.
MAKING UP:

Work in all ends neatly.

Lay the inside covers on the outside cover- matching sides and edges and leaving the spine uncovered- and work a dc using the spine colour all the way around working through the 2 thicknesses. ( a good place to start is one corner at the spine)
Where you are working a dc into the end of a stripe as at the top or bottom edges, try to make the dc into the end of each row and at a consistent depth. At the corners: work 3 dc in one stitch to create the turn and then work one dc into each stitch at the left and right- hand edges.
Hold the outside cover facing you when you work this dc edge.

Optional: finish with a crabstitch row all around.

To insert the diary: holding diary by the middle pages insert half of each card cover side into the crocheted ''pockets'' stretching and adjusting as you ease the diary fully into it's new ''coat''.

Colour sequence used- as guidance only:

Turquoise = A

Orange handknit cotton = B

GOLDEN YELLOW=C

Navy = D

Lime green = E

Red= F

Rows as per number for outside cover:
1, A
2B
3C

4D

5E

6C

7A

8F

9D

10B

11E

12A

13C

14D

15B

16F

17E

18C

19A

20B

21D

22A

23F

24E

25C

26B

27E

28D

29A

30F

31B

32C
33,34,35 A

Free KISSES fingerless gloves pattern in CROCHET

Fingerless Gloves Crochet Pattern

November 2009 Susan Koffler

In this pattern UK crochet terms are being used.
If you are used to USA terms please refer to the conversion table at the end of the pattern.

YARNS USED:

DK pure wool 2 balls of 50 g and 120m per 50 g. USA Weight: category: #3 Light Worsted
Sock yarn: category #1 Super Fine: alpaca 186m per 50 g.

Actual yarns used in the photographed sample:
1 ball Artesano Hummingbird 4 ply in the blues variegated colourway

2 balls Mondial Merino Sport by Yeoman Yarns in colour # 1
This is a machine washable pure merino wool.

Crochet Hook: 4.5mm.( US #7)

Difficulty: Intermediate or confident beginner.

The pattern is for a small adult or teenage girl’s sized hand, there are guidance notes to adjust the pattern at the end of the pattern.


Size:
18 cm around cuff, cuff length: 6.5 cm.
Overall length from cuff edge to fingers: 19 cm.
Palm width 20 cm in circumference, 10 cm across.


Gauge:
4 crossed treble stitches to 5 cm ( 2’’)
4 rows of crossed trebles to 5 cm ( 2’’)

Stitches Used:
Crossed trebles XTR
Front post treble: FPTR
Back post treble: BPTR
2TRTOG: standard decrease by working 2 trebles together as one.
Sl st= slip stitch
Dc= Double crochet ( SC in USA)


Pattern Notes:

The pattern is worked in the round from the wrist to the first knuckles of the fingers and then a ribbed cuff is added later and worked to the desired length.
In this pattern all fingers are separated by a stitch but this may be omitted if the wearer prefers the fingers to share one opening.
The 2 yarns are held and worked together as one throughout.
This gives it more body, softness and a tweedy effect.And boy: IT'S REALLY WARM!!!

PATTERN:

Chain 36 loosely or in a hook a few sizes larger than a 4.5mm, close with a sl st.
R1: Ch3 work 35 trebles in the chains. Close with a sl st.
R2 : Ch3 then work a tr in the stitch to the right of the 3ch.( first crossed tr made),
Continue to work in crossed tr by skipping the next tr and working a tr in the 2nd stitch after the 3 ch. Then work the next tr by stitching it into the skipped stitch
( second XTR made) , continue round for a further 16 XTR. Close row with a sl st into the top of the 3ch.
R3,4 as row 2: 18 XTR in the round.
Divide for thumb:
R5: CH 3 and a tr in the previous stitch, then work 6 more XTR, skip the next 8 sts and work 7 XTR to end the row with a slst to the top of the 3ch.
The hand is now 14 XTR and the thumb: 4 XTR.
In the next row R6: work 2 XTR in the first stitch above the thumb divide: 15 XTR in total.
R7, 8,9Continue the hand first: work 3 more rows XTR as before- 15 XTR.
R10:Ch1 , work a dc in each top of a treble for 5 sts then work 2 dc in the top of the 6th treble, repeat to the end.You should now have 35 sts. Sl st to close.
R11: Ch1, work 3 dc : 1 in each stitch below, then work a dc in the double layer by working it across the top of the glove opening: push the hook through 2 sts one from each side ( front and back) of the glove. It should be 3 sts in from the side at the back as well as the front.
Work 4dc and work another dc across the 2 layers at the same point front and back: so you are now 9 sts in from the right hand edge of the glove.( working stitches from right to left)
Work 4 dc and repeat the one dc across 2 layers: you are now 14 sts in from the right hand edge of this glove’s top opening and 4 sts from it’s left hand edge.
Now work 7 dc round the top moving from the front side( the side facing you) to the back side of the glove, after 3 sts of these 7 turn the work.
Work the remaining 4 dcs and this should take you to the first finger separation line.
Work 1 dc across 2 layers.
Work 4dc and work 1 dc across 2 layers.
Work 4dc and work 1 dc across 2 layers.
You should now be back at the opening for the first or smallest finger.
Work 3 dc and fasten off.

You should have 4 finger openings with the one for the smallest finger being 6dcs and the one nearest the thumb being 7 dcs.

Finish Thumb:
Work 10 dc in the top of the trebles of the thumb hole.
Work 1 or more rows like this depending on size of thumb.
Fasten off. Sew in ends neatly.

Ribbed Cuff:

Fasten yarn back onto the starting chain near the thumb end of the glove.
If you want a tight ribbing you can go down a hook size to 4mm or smaller.
R1 : Ch 3 then work 2tr, then work one 2TRTOG,* work 3 tr then 1 2TRTOG: repeat from * to end and sl st to close. You should have 26 sts.
R2: 3 Ch then *FPTR,BPTR repeat from * to end and close with a sl st.
This forms the ribbing, the 3 ch is effectively a BPTR.
Work 7 more rows of ribbing and fasten off.

If you would like a longer cuff: work more rows.

Work the other glove the same way but reverse the spacings at the top or turn it around to suit. Left and Right hand are worked the same way.


Size Adjustments:
For larger sizes add stitches in increments of 2 to fit personal palm/wrist size.
And/ or use a 5mm hook or larger.
M: I suggest 40 sts ie 20 XTR
L : 44 sts: ie 22 XTR

When you get to the top of the palm divide the stitches you have by 4 to give the spacings.

If you need to use a 5.5mm hook: use another strand of the sock yarn or the fabric will be too loose and less warm.

Conversion Stitches:UK dc = USA sc
UK treble= USA dc
Every type of treble mentioned is a type of dc.

Please note this pattern is the copyright of Susan Merry King Designs and can be used freely for personal use only.

If you link to this pattern please credit it to me and PLEASE do not use it to make gloves to sell.

I will be having some finished items like this to sell in my Etsy and MISI shops real soon I hope.